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Photos for OS X is designed to appeal to a broad audience, with simple editing tools that let anyone improve their photographs. But is that it? Even though it’s a 1.0 product (replacing iPhoto and Aperture), a lot of editing power is actually hidden beneath that user-friendly surface.
For example, when you edit a photo and click the Adjust button, you’re presented with sliders for improving light and color. Dragging a slider makes the image brighter or darker (Light), or more or less saturated (Color); you can also click the Auto button that appears when the mouse pointer moves over the tool. Clicking the down-facing arrow icon, however, exposes individual controls.
That’s just the beginning.
Jump into editing
To access the editing view, normally you click the Edit button when viewing an image, but there’s a better way: simply press the Return key. This shortcut also works in the Moments view when a photo is selected.
Shortcuts also go directly to specific tools, even if you’re not yet in the editing view. Press C to open the Crop tool, F for filters, A for the Adjust tool, R for the Retouch tool, and E for the Red-eye tool. While you’re editing, press the arrow keys to switch to the previous or next photo without leaving the editing view.
To compare your edits to the original version of the photo, press the M key for a quick before-and-after.
Choose which version to edit
If you shoot with your camera set to Raw+JPEG format (which records both a raw image and a high-resolution JPEG version), Photos treats the two separate images as one. However, the application defaults to editing the JPEG instead of the richer raw version.
To switch, open the photo in the editing view and choose Image > Use RAW as Original. (The option is disabled unless you’re in the editing view.)
Add more adjustments
The Light, Color, and Black & White adjustments in the Adjust tool are just the most common adjustments. Several more are available by clicking the Add menu (see image below). I find having the Histogram visible to be helpful, for example. If you use some controls regularly, such as White Balance, choose Save As Default at the bottom of the Add menu; those adjustments will appear every time you edit a photo.
Extend edit ranges
A funny thing happened one day when I accidentally pressed the Option key while editing a photo: The tick marks on several of the adjustment controls moved.
Many of the controls use a scale that ranges from –1.00 to +1.00, with the image’s original value sitting in the middle at zero. The Exposure control, for example, darkens the image significantly at –1.00, but doesn’t turn it black. When you hold Option, that range changes to between –2.00 and +2.00, letting you darken the photo even more (or go the other direction and brighten a dark photo).
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This feature is also useful when you’re looking for more pop or an extreme treatment for a drab photo. In the images below, I’ve taken a photo of dried leaves and pushed the contrast to its initial maximum value of 1.00. With the Option key held, however, I can push that higher and get a more dramatic effect.
Multiple levels of Levels
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The Histogram is good for identifying the color and tonal values in a photo, but it’s there just for reference. The Levels adjustment, however, lets you manipulate those values in some sophisticated ways. Choose Levels from the Add menu to view it.
Looking at a histogram, the left side represents dark values (with black at the far left) and the right side represents light values (with white at the far right). The colored areas within indicate the distribution of red, green, and blue (RGB) pixels within the scene. If you want to isolate and edit any of those channels, click the options menu that appears when you move your mouse cursor over the controls. You can also choose Luminance to view only the brightness values.
The teardrop-shaped handles at the bottom of the Levels histogram control (from left to right) the black point, midtones, and the white point. To brighten an image, for example, drag the white point to the left—the values to the right of the white point get pushed to their full luminance, increasing the overall brightness of the photo (see below).
Similarly, dragging the black point makes the image darker, and dragging the midtones lightens or darkens the values that fall between the light and dark extremes; the smaller handles that flank the midtones control affect shadows (left) and highlights (right). Sometimes, for instance, it may be better to adjust the midtones to brighten an image to avoid clipping, which is when pixels are pushed all the way to pure white or black.
There’s more to the Levels adjustment, however. The handles at the top of the Levels adjustment allow you to fine-tune the edits made with the bottom handles. In the image below, I’ve reduced the white point setting (by moving it to the right) so the lightest areas aren’t blown out, and then also dragged the top-center control to brighten the midtones. The result is a brighter, more saturated sky, but also detail in light areas such as the pyramid-topped building in the center of the skyline. Dmt tool for mac serial number. You can also hold Option and drag a top handle to also move its connected bottom handle in unison, maintaining the relationship between the two.
Copy and paste adjustments
After you’ve edited a photo to your liking, you probably have similar shots taken at the same time that would benefit from those adjustments. Rather than try to replicate everything by hand, it’s much easier to copy the work you did on the first one and paste it onto another.
While you’re still in the editing view, choose Image > Copy Adjustments (or press Command-Shift-C). Next, switch to the unedited photo and choose Image > Paste Adjustments (or press Command-Shift-V). All the changes you made to the first apply to the second.
Looking ahead
These advanced or hidden editing features exist in the current 1.0.1 version of Photos for OS X, and there’s more to come. An update arriving with the upcoming OS X El Capitan will support editing extensions: third-party developers can create modules that will enable you to edit your images within Photos for OS X using the developer’s tools. This capability already exists on iOS—you can use the editing tools of Pixelmator or Camera Plus, to name just two examples, without leaving the Photos app on your iPhone or iPad.
For now, though, Photos for OS X turns out to be a much more capable photo editor than it first appears, which is a good place to start moving forward.
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When many professional photographers finish a job, they go to a Mac and use the sophisticated, $150 Photo Mechanic to copy, review, and cull photos quickly. Unlike a tool such as Adobe Lightroom, which manages a photo library for you, Photo Mechanic is a media browser that reads whichever Finder folders you point it at.
That’s overkill, though, for people who simply want to manage their photos in the Finder, or review the images before importing them into Apple’s Photos app. Even when you view items in a Finder window as icons and scale them to their largest size, they’re still not large enough to really evaluate which shots are keepers. Using the Finder’s Quick Preview (press the spacebar with one or more images selected) can be a slow process, especially with RAW-formatted files.
As an alternative, I looked at three simple utilities that quickly review media in the Finder and give you options for acting on the files: Spect, Full Frame, and Phiewer (and its expanded sibling Phiewer Pro).
Not everyone needs a full photo library system the likes of Apple’s Photos or Lightroom, so it’s great to have these slimmer options. With a taste of these features, though, I want more. Instead of a binary keep/trash choice, I’d like to see the ability to apply a Finder label to selected photos as a way to flag images with a higher priority for later editing, for example. They don’t have to become as extensive as Adobe Bridge or Photo Mechanic, but a few steps further would be welcome.
Full Frame
Full Frame starts at the photo import process, looking for an attached memory card or camera. Unless you reflexively copy every image to your hard disk first, this is the natural place to begin, especially since neither the Photos app nor Apple’s Image Capture utility give you large previews to see what you’re importing.
Full Frame can scale thumbnails up to 400 percent of their native size, which certainly lets you see what you’re working with. If you need an even larger preview, clicking the zoom (+) button in the top-left corner of a thumbnail fills the window with that image in slideshow mode (which doesn’t actually play a slideshow—it just makes the preview large enough to view one photo at a time). It can also reveal the full Exif metadata for one image or multiple selected image, and optionally rename files during the import process. Metadata presets apply custom information to files as they’re imported, such as adding a copyright notice.
Since the application is designed as a mechanism for importing photos, its primary task involves setting a destination folder and clicking Import (or Copy if the source is another folder). If you’re using it to sort through existing folders of images, you can ignore that part and use the Delete button to cull the shots you don’t want to keep.
Any of the metadata preset features apply only when importing or copying images. You can edit some fields manually in the Info window, but which fields appear depend on the file format; JPEG files include an Image Description field, but the iPhone’s HEIC format does not. You won’t find a common Title or Description field that applies to every image.
If you do edit the metadata, you can then save the change, but not all file formats are supported. The app threw up an error when reading raw .RAF images from my Fujifilm X-T1, a four-year-old camera, saying that version of the format hasn’t been tested yet. For those that do work, the metadata is saved into the raw file, not to a sidecar file.
Full Frame is free to use for 100 images, after which in-app purchase options kick in: $4.99 for an additional set of 100 images, or $29.99 to remove the amount restriction. As an alternative to Image Capture or Photos for importing images, the application provides a better way to review images at import.
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Spect
The newest entrant to this category of photo browsers is Spect, a speedy and simple utility for viewing images within folders. When you point it at a directory, large-sized thumbnails appear. At the largest zoom level, Spect fit four images (six when the navigation sidebar is hidden) on my 15-inch MacBook Pro screen, which is large enough to evaluate the quality of the image. A slideshow mode expands the image sizes to fit the application’s window (and automatically switches between images); you can also play a randomized slideshow.
Spect swiftly displayed all the images I threw at it, including raw files from multiple camera vendors. There’s also an option to include PDFs, but the software ignores video files.
One challenge when storing photos in the Finder is dealing with folder hierarchies. Some people nest images based on date, location, or event; when you’ve been shooting for a while, a camera’s number increment turns over, which can leave you with multiple files titled “IMG_1234.JPG,” for example. Spect deals with hierarchies by letting you set how deep it should scan a given folder. It displays whichever images it encounters in the main window, so you don’t need to navigate folders manually. Also, you can choose how to sort the images, regardless of where they’re stored, by name, creation date, modification date, or file size.
For sorting through your photo collections, the only option Spect provides is to send files to the Finder’s Trash. If you want to do anything else, you can reveal the image in its Finder window and act on it there. That includes renaming files or even viewing more information than just the filename. However, dragging and dropping images between Spect and the Finder moves files as you would expect the Finder to act.
Spect is an image viewer that, in this version, wants to remain simple and do one task well. It’s the perfect pre-processing complement to Photos if you’re particularly choosy about what ends up in that application. I respect this approach, although it does make me long for just a few more options, such as set Finder labels or even send an image to a photo-editing application.
Spect costs $4.99 from the Mac App Store. A free trial version, downloadable from the Spect website, allows unlimited browsing but disables other features.
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Phiewer and Phiewer Pro
The approach taken by the free Phiewer and its paid version, Phiewer Pro, is to emphasize viewing one image at a time—no complaints about not being able to view a photo here! You can point the app at a folder and view its contents, and optionally delete the image you’re viewing.
A grid of thumbnails appears in a sidebar, and you can resize the thumbnails to get a better idea of which image is which. To make them more than stamp-sized, though, I found myself expanding the sidebar’s width to view more than one thumbnail at a time.
Unfortunately, if you’re browsing some raw files, Phiewer doesn’t display a thumbnail image. In my testing, it did fine with JPEGs and Nikon .NEF raw files, but remained blank for Canon .CR2 raw files, Fujifilm .RAF raw files, and even iPhone HEIC files.
You need to select each thumbnail and wait for the application to read it and create a viewable image in the main viewing area. Looking at a grid of empty thumbnails is useless when you’re trying to sort through your images.
According to Phiewer’s documentation, clicking a thumbnail renders the image, and then the empty thumbnail is replaced by a preview of the actual image; there’s even a setting to store or discard that image cache. However, that behavior worked only when I was reviewing images on an attached memory card, not browsing folders on my hard disk. So even after viewing an image, unless you have excellent spatial memory, you won’t see which images you’ve previously viewed.
Phiewer Pro adds a host of editing controls, such as aligning and cropping, and applying filters for aspects such as brightness, contrast, and the like. There are also several pre-made effects, although you can’t apply an effect and then tweak its appearance using the filters; choose one tool or the other.
Both Phiewer and Phiewer Pro include a basic slideshow tool. Unless you’ve viewed every image in the current folder, however, you have to wait for each non-JPEG image to render, which makes the show stutter.
Phiewer is free. Phiewer Pro costs $4.99 at the Mac App Store.
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